Riaan Umlingisi wase-Ireland u-Paul Mescal uzokwethamela ama-Academy Awards okokuqala ngqa ngeSonto—njengombangi womlingisi ongcono kakhulu, oqokwe umfanekiso wakhe kababa ongayedwa osemusha, ozingelayo ku-movie ye-A24 Ngemva kwelanga. Kodwa inkumbulo yokuqala yomdlali we-Oscars, njengoba esanda kutshela I-Vanity Fairkwakuyimfashini ekhaphethi obomvu.
“Umama wayejwayele ukufunda Sawubona Magazini, lab’ omagazini, futhi ngangihlale ngibona izithombe zezinto ezigqokwa abantu,” kusho uMescal, enezela ngokuthi akazange angene engxenyeni yangempela yemiklomelo kwaze kwaba yilapho efunda esikoleni se-drama. Eminyakeni embalwa edlule—selokhu agqama enguqulweni kaHulu ka-Sally Rooney Abantu Abavamile, futhi ikakhulukazi ngaphambi komkhosi walo nyaka—ubelokhu ezicijela imizwa yakhe yezingubo zokugqoka futhi ezama ama-silhouette ajabulisayo. Muva nje kuzwakala sengathi u-Mescal ugqoka ngendlela abafana abaningi abafuna ukugqoka ngayo kulezi zinsuku—noma mhlawumbe abafana abaningi bafuna ukugqoka njengoPaul Mescal kulezi zinsuku. Kunoma ikuphi, ubelokhu ebhala ibhuku lokudlala elihle lokulangazelela ukungena ezimpahleni zabesilisa ezingakwesokunxele.
Nge Abantu AbavamileuMescal wafika ezikrinini zethu ze-TV ngesikhathi sokuphakama kwe-Covid lockdown, umbono-futhi ojwayelekile oqabulayo ngaleso sikhathi- izikhindi zebhola lezinyawo ezimfishane futhi umgexo omncane weketanga lesiliva. (Ngaphambi kokulingisa, uMescal ubengumdlali weligi encane kuligi yebhola lezinyawo yaseGaelic yase-Ireland. utshele GQ ekwindla edlule. “Ziyizikhindi zebhola nje engizigqoke impilo yami yonke.”) Kulokhu okuthunyelwe kwakamuva-Ngemva kwelangaukuvakasha kwabezindaba kwangaphambi kwe-Oscars, ubesebenza nomdwebi wesitayela u-Felicity Kay, futhi kube namathuba amaningi okushintshanisa izikhindi zakhe ze-Umbro ngamasudi e-floppy Gucci.
“Ngesikhathi mina noPaul siqala ukusebenza ndawonye ngonyaka odlule sathumela izinkomba eziningi emuva naphambili,” uKay utshele I-Vogue ngenyanga edlule. “Izithombe ezimile zaseHollywood ezindala, umsebenzi wobuciko webhendi yakudala, izithombe zezinhlelo esizithandile, ukuhlela okudala. Ngokushesha ngaba nomuzwa wokuthi uPaul wayenambitheka kahle.” NgokukaKay, indlela yabo kube wukuthunga izingubo “okuhlanekezelwe ngobuqili. Okubi kancane emaphethelweni, okuthintekayo futhi okwesimanje,” njengesudi ye-Giuliva Heritage ekhohlakele (naleyo khola yekamu eyihaba yesitayela sama-’70s) ayedlala ngayo Seth Meyers, noma ibhantshi elikhulu, eliluhlaza sasibhakabhaka kanye nebhulukwe elikhahlela elinokhalo oluphakeme, uGucci, aligqoke kuma-Independent Spirit Awards kule mpelasonto edlule. Kodwa akukhona nje ngezingubo.
Okokuqala, kukhona izinwele zamanje ze-Mescal: i-platonically grungy ideal imfashini yemfashini ye-shag mullet lokho, kuyena, kuvele kumenze abukeke njengomdlali webhola ophakathi nesizini. Futhi okuyinto, ngokusho yakhe GQ Ividiyo yami ethi Essentials, ugcizelela nge-spritz esheshayo ye-Sun Bum Sea Spray: “Indlela yami yokwenza izinwele ishawa, faka okunye kwalokhu phakathi, phonsa izandla zami ezinweleni zami bese uvele uzivumele zibe ngendlela ofuna zibe ngayo.” (Inkosi ehlobene, abanye bangase bathi.) Ngokuvumelana nabantu abalungile eBritish GQ“izinwele zezinwele seziwuphawu olungalindelekile lokushisa: a iparele-umgexo, imvunulo emhlophe, ubuso bomfana obuhlanzekile kodwa-namanje-okungalungile-kancane’un uhlobo olushisayo.” Futhi ekugcineni, kumnandi kumlingisi ongathi sína ukugunda izinwele okungenangqondo.
Futhi ngaphansi kwamasudi e-louche, ubegqoke amathangi amaningi anezimbambo ezimhlophe—okuyinto, kuye ngokuthi uwabheka kanjani, awuphawu lwakudala (noluyinkimbinkimbi) lobudoda, noma olunezimbambo, oluhehayo, mhlawumbe ngisho. abasengozini okunye esikhundleni sehembe eligcwele izinkinobho. Ngasekuqaleni kwaleli sonto, I Umnakekeli ishicilele indaba yonke “ngenganekwane nencazelo” yamathange akamuva kaMescal anezimbambo ezimhlophe atholakala yonke indawo. Ngokusebenzisa isizini yemiklomelo yezinyanga ezimbalwa ezedlule, uMescal uphinde walingisa emdlalweni othi West End kaTennessee Williams. Imoto yomgwaqo ebizwa ngokuthi i-Desireendimeni efanayo eyabeka uMarlon Brando nesiqongo sakhe sethangi elinezimbambo ezimhlophe ebalazweni emuva ngo-1951. (Ngokuthakazelisayo, umqondisi walokhu kuguqulwa kwamanje ngokwezifiso noma yimaphi amathangi amhlophe asuka kulokhu kujwayela, echaza isifiso sokusuka “kumthwalo wokusebenza” wokuvezwa kwenganekwane kuka-Brando.) Umnakekeli, umbhali wengqephu u-Dal Chodha wanikeza ukuthi ithangi, ikakhulukazi kumzimba kaMescal onyakazayo, “linikeza umzimba wesilisa ofaneleka ngendlela yakudala yama-1950s. Ithi ‘ubudoda’ ngendlela eqondile nengeyona inkimbinkimbi.”
Sikubonile okuningi amahembe angaphansi vula nangaphandle kukhaphethi obomvu muva nje, mhlawumbe ngenxa yezizathu eziningi, futhi banganikeza kancane i-hardo vibe. Noma kunjalo, u-Mescal uye ezikhathini ezithambile eziqondile, futhi, ikakhulukazi lapho egqoke izingcezu zomklami wase-Ireland u-Simone Rocha: ihembe le-Oxford elinekhola yeparele ku UJimmy Kimmel, ibhantshi elifekethisiwe kuma-SAGs, isudi enamahlombe ayindilinga kumaBritish Independent Film Awards. British GQ usanda kuthathwa ngokuthi u-Rocha, osanda kwandisa ilebula yakhe yezingubo zabesifazane ukuze afake imiklamo yamadoda, njenge “umkhiqizo osebenzayo we-Cool Guy™,” okuzwakala kukhombisa ivayibhu ye-Cool Guy yohambo lwemfashini luka-Mescal. “Ngangifuna ukubona ubufazi nalokhu kuphambana kobudoda, futhi ubudoda ngibubone njengobunjalo babo. Lowo bekuwumbono, empeleni, wokubona ukuthi konke lokhu kuhlangana kanjani, futhi kuzwakala kungokomzwelo, ”kusho uRocha GQ, futhi kuyiqiniso: izingubo zamadoda ezipholile kulezi zinsuku ziphathelene nokuphikisana. Mhlawumbe lokho kuvuleka, kuhambisana nezinhlobo zezindima ezithinta imizwa uMescal, yikhona okwenza isitayela sakhe sifiseleke kakhulu. Yini ebukeka ingcono kunokuzethemba?
